PCT Campo to Cabazon, April 2016
March 26, 2016 I decided to hike the first couple sections of the PCT mostly because I couldn't remember much of it. I had a choice between this or a chunk of the Condor Trail but I chose the PCT because I didn't want to be so lonely and also because I wanted to see the ocotillo in bloom, something I've always wanted to see.
I'm wearing a hiking skirt I sewed myself and cut-off pant legs as gaiters to protect from sunburn and brush. The hiking skirt ended up being my favorite piece of
I bumped into a guy sleeping here at mile 1. I didn't take his picture though. Apparently the bus that drops you off dropped him off pretty late so he decided to sleep here. I had planned to take the bus, too, but instead I stayed with Scout and Frodo and got a ride to the trail early in the morning from Frodo.
The campground was packed. It was the day before Easter. There was no way I'd stay here. I'd never get any sleep. I've been here before when the campground was full like this and everybody plays their truck radios and kids are screaming all night long.
The famous Rebo was here and a bunch of tired hikers. Rebo tried to convince me to stay, that I'd found "my people". I really would rather sleep, thanks. Rebo sort of
Kitchen Creek. There was water here but it was a difficult scramble. I thought there was an easier spot up ahead but I was wrong. When I got to the road above the creek I pondered whether to walk the road to the creek or just push on. Laziness said push on, even though I ended up with less water than I should have carried.
Up, up into the hot scrub. At some point I stopped for lunch and met a Dutch guy named Tim. Tim's pack looked HUGE and heavy and he was wearing tight black jeans. He said he was unaccostomed to the climate here. Yeah, it's not like Holland, that's for sure! When I told Tony about meeting Tim he asked if he was the young guy whose mother was frantically worried about. I didn't think so because he didn't look that young to me and he seemed to be having a great time despite his disco pants and
I finally arrived at the water at Long Canyon. There was camping available under that tree. I rested here a while and saw Tim arrive and start setting up his tent. I continued on.
It turned out that Tim was the young hiker whose mother was concerned about him. He was doing fine and having a great time.
I went to the Mt. Laguna Visitor Center to get water. I also stopped in at the store for some hot coffee and a few more meals. I didn't pack a full load of food. I bought stuff like spam, cheese and mashed potatoes and one candy bar. The man at the store told me that they were expecting severe weather. High winds with gusts up to 90mph. I didn't believe him since he also runs a hotel. I put my pack cover on in case it would rain and I put my rain skirt and rain jacket on because it was really
I met a few other hikers who were worried about the weather. One was named Betty. She recognized me right away as Piper. I had been trying to hike the trail incognito, using my real name instead of my trail name. Kind of ironic that to be anonymous I needed to use my real name. Anyway, she recognized me somehow so I admitted yes, I'm Piper. Betty was waiting for the cafe to open. I did not expect to see Betty again.
About here I got a taste of the high winds. I was not yet afraid. Here is a video.
After you pass all the plaques, you have to cross a bit of paved road to get back on the trail. The paved road ends in a sheer drop-off. When I got to that road I think I experienced these 90mph winds the store proprietor warned me about. I was really scared. I could not walk. I truly felt if the wind got any stronger it would pick me up and throw me over the cliff. I stood with my trekking poles planted and bent over and yelled "NOOOOO!!!!!" I didn't want this mountain to take me, too.
The winds were much calmer whenever I was on this side of the hills. I went over and over in my mind whether or not I felt I could sleep on this side, if it was safe. I worried that the wind could shift in the night and then my tent would blow down and I wouldn't have any shelter. It might rain or snow, and without shelter, what would I do? I walked on for miles arguing with myself whether to freak out or stay sane.
I decided to hike to Sunrise Trailhead where I knew there was an outhouse. I really hoped the outhouse was not locked. My plan was that I could take shelter in the outhouse and be safe. I would try to hitchhike out of there but if I couldn't get a ride, I would sleep in the outhouse.
Very near to the turnoff to the outhouse the trail passed right under Sunrise Highway. I decided to climb up to the road and walk the road to the outhouse. That way I would have more opportunity to seek a
I got a nice room. I hoped to get on the trail again in the morning. As I lay there trying to sleep I realized my feet were very sore.
March 29, 2016.
When I woke up in the morning it was snowing. Here's a movie. I decided that maybe it wasn't a bad idea to take a day of recovery. I had been hiking at least 20 miles per day. From couch/desk to 20 miles per day was pretty rough and a day of recovery would help. I
I'm such a nerd. Seeing this beautiful blooming cactus garden actually ranks up there with the Goat Rocks as one of my favorite highlights of the trail. The guide book author is so down on the San Felipe hills, even urging people to write their congress person to put the trail in the Volcan mountains where it belongs. But seeing this cactus garden was one of my favorite days of the trail of all the times I've hiked it.
I walked many miles in the San Felipe hills, up and out of the cactus garden. I passed numerous sheltered campsites that I kept wishing I had encountered later in the day. The wind was picking up and it looked like it was going to rain. I hurried along hoping to find a campsite sheltered from the wind. I kept finding exposed sites out on precipices. I was getting nervous. Part of the ultralight tent strategy is good campsite selection and being able to walk far enough to make a good selection
I came upon these heavy boots arranged in the trail like a hiking ghost. I thought about it a bit and decided to pack them out. They were quite heavy, a woman's size 7 and about 4lbs total.
I find it outrageous that after all the trip reports, blogs, forums, facebook pages and gear reviews available out there, there are still people who ignore the advice from accomplished thru-hikers to wear breathable trail running shoes and insist they need big heavy boots. Their punishment for
This is the road they drive all that water in on. The local Sierra Club group provides the cache. It's much appreciated. Without it the distance between Rodriguez Spring and Barrel Spring is over 30 miles. You may find water between these two sources in San Felipe Creek (probably contaminated by runoff) or at a trailer park in Banner, a 4 miles hitch or in Julian, a 12 miles hitch. The 3rd Gate cache saves hikers the trouble.
Personally I didn't need any water from this cache. I had
The resort at the hot springs is now closed. Hikers now gather at the community center. They had coffee, wi-fi, computers, a little store and hiker box. There were water spigots, picnic tables, and places to camp. You could borrow a bucket to hand-wash your clothes and take a cold outdoor shower.
I stopped here to freshen up a bit, buy an Eagle Rock bandana and then go to the post office to get my resupply.
Somewhere in this canyon I came upon P9. I had dinner with P9 in Julian. I guess he had not taken a zero day in Julian like me. P9 was a nice retired man, an engineer, I think. He had been writing his name in the dirt all along the trail. I thought this was strange. Usually you think young kids do stuff like that, but he was a middle-aged man. It's not exactly graffiti or vandalism, but it is sort of annoying. Why would he do it?
April 3, 2016
In the morning I came upon this cache. The water report said this cache was long gone. But it's still here.
I met another family here filling up. I had met them briefly yesterday resting behind a boulder. I never found out their names or their story. They were hiking with what looked like a 14 year old girl.
I was in time for breakfast! I had hiked either 8 or 10 miles to get here. I ate with a nice young lady named Bella and her mother and father, the three people I wasn't able to catch up to and the family I had met at Tule Spring yesterday.
Bella is so fast! She started 2 days after me and was already ahead of me. Her parents were equally fast. They did the whole section from Warner Springs to highway 74 in two days. One of their sons has climbed all 7 summits and the mother had climbed
I went into Hurkey Creek. There's a playground and campground there. I got some water.
Halfmile's instructions said to pass this place and continue on the highway. But the map said otherwise. I skirted the outer edge of the campground and found a couple mountain bikers. I asked them if they knew of a mountain bike trail nearby. There was a gate in the fence that led to it just two campsites away.
As I followed this road I noticed one big bend in the road had an empty bottle of vodka every few feet. Some person lives in this beautiful place and still is not happy. Every night they must go drink their sorrows away and
I also went to have a craft brew at a wine-tasting place. It was so expensive but so refreshing. It was a 12oz IPA. I was pretty drunk after drinking it. I walked across the street to another restaurant and had trout almondine for dinner and another IPA. Now I was quite drunk but my feet felt zero pain anymore.
On the Marion Mountain trail, I wasn't yet sure what I had done wrong so I got out my maps to try to figure it out. I thought I would try the apps on my phone.
The apps were useless. The Guthook app was just a red line against a grid. There was no information at all and it didn't give me any indication where I was or even what I was looking at. The Gaia GPS app said it didn't know what Idyllwild was or Hemet. It didn't even know what Yucca Valley was and I had a map in there with Yucca
I stopped for lunch. I put butter in my cold, reconsituted meat and potatoes. The hiker hunger was starting to hit me and I hoped higher calories and lots of fat and protein would keep it away.
I still hadn't decided what I should do. Should I end my hike in Cabazon? Should I do Terry's crazy Yucca Valley detour? Should I go to Ziggy and the Bear's where I heard there were shuttle buses going to Big Bear? Should I do an out-and-back up to Mission Creek and back? I wasn't sure, so for
All afternoon the Fuller Ridge trail was solid snow on the north side. It made for fairly easy going, actually. There were no little hummocks to climb up and down, no searching for the trail tread. I could mostly just follow the footprints and thanks to my crampons, I didn't slip much or get too nervous on some of the steeper sections.
I stopped in a fairly sheltered place to call Tony. All along he had been saying he would pick me up wherever I wanted to stop. I suddenly decided that the best thing to do would be to stop in Cabazon. This had been a great adventure, a really wonderful hike. San Jacinto was a fitting end. All that other stuff with the fire closure and various detours just sounded too complicated. It seemed better to save it for another time.
It was only 4pm and I was already so hungry so I stopped for
At the community of Snow Creek, a community that is rumored to not be PCT hiker-friendly, there's this sign with all these PCT landmarks on it. Next to the sign is a house with a PCT sticker and a sherrif's star on the mailbox. I think maybe this is a secret trail angel or perhaps someone who can help you if you are in trouble.
I didn't get a picture, but down in the flats I see a blue shirt coming my way with a familiar gait. It's Tony! He's come to meet me out in the desert on the worst part of the entire trail, bless his heart. He brought me ice water. It was well-recieved. I was surprised how this hot heat was making me thirsty. We hiked together back toward Ziggy and the Bear. I convinced him that if I walked to Ziggy and the Bear's they might be kinder to me and treat me like a regular hiker, let me wash up.<
I wandered all over the place trying to find Ziggy and the Bear's house. I probably would have found it had I stayed on the trail, but I was running out of houses and thought I better just wander the streets. This is their view from the front.
I went into the back porch where they let hikers stay. There were two women there. They were the owners of the footprints I had been following for several days, from before Halfmile's detour, through it, along the Fuller Ridge snow and down all
The rest of these pictures are pictures of my gear if you are interested.
These are my main clothes.
Top left, going down:
- Bandana
- Fishing shirt (cheaper than hiking shirts but they are basically the same)
- Homemade nylon hiking skirt. Has one big pocket on the side. Wished it had a zippered pocket but I ran out of fabric. This was my favorite piece of gear. Went full Scotsman underneath and was never more comfortable. It is knee length to protect from
My backpack. It's a ULA Relay, which they don't make anymore. The closest comparison is the ULA CDT.
I sewed a scrap of spandex to the back to create a pocket for hats, gloves and jackets so I don't have to dig around in my pack all the time and I don't have to worry things will fall out under the bungee. I also added an extension to one of the side pockets so that I feel more secure about my platypus bottle. I lined it with reflectix but it only kept my water a little bit cooler.
Here's a bunch of random stuff.
- Two white trash compactor bags. I put my sleeping bags in one. The other was a spare which I ended up using to carry out the abandoned boots.
- To the left of the white bags is a pink bag I kept my food in. I work in IT and I guess the bag had a server or router in it at one time. Found it in the trash.
- To the right of the compactor bags is my Zpacks cuben fiber rain jacket. I wore this all the time for warmth.
- Under the rain
More random stuff.
- Two pairs of black tabi socks to wear with my sandals.
- A plastic jar with a screw-top lid. I would soak my meals in here and drink from this like a cup.
- Titanium spoon. A short one that fits in my cookpot, which I sent home due to blowing up my stove. It also fits in the plastic jar.
Food
I went for mailed resupplies instead of shop-as-you-go. The reason for this is that Warner Springs no longer has a store, just a small room
My two sleeping bags.
- Black: 45 degree Jacks R Better wearable quilt.
- Blue: Golite Ultra 20 quilt.
- The black thing is a stuff sack for my sleeping bag. I used it for the tent (which is the light green thing next to it). The stuff sack for the tent was just too tight and I was going to break it if I kept using it, and then Tony would be mad.
- The dark green things: Fleece arm/leg warmers I made by cutting the arms off a fleece sweatshirt. I wore them for
Here's a better picture of my Jacks R Better quilt. There's a hole in the center you can stick your head through so you can wear it like a poncho. I did not carry a down jacket and used this instead. This is how I used it:
- At night it was like an extra blanket, making my sleeping situtation usually just as warm as at home.
- Before going to bed or after waking, I could wear it like a poncho while doing things in my tent like eating, journal writing, packing up.
- In
Lots of random stuff here:
- Black things: Luna sandals.
- Trekking poles.
- Thing above my shoes: Crampons (with a piece of foam under the spikes to keep from stabbing things while stowed.) I love my crampons. Maybe I will get a tattoo of them.
- My shoes. Altra Superiors. These shoes are unbearably hot, which is why I brought the sandals and tabi socks. I would alternate.
- Umbrella. Used for sun while walking on that hot dirt road into Idyllwild.
- The gray conical thing is my Zpacks pointy hat. This hat was awesome. You clip it to a visor or ball cap. There's a chin strap which I modified to be more secure. I wore it with a visor which allowed the breeze to cool my head under the hat. It could securely withstand fairly high winds. At night I would unzip it and it would lay flat, giving me extra padding under my shoulder and for a pillow.
- My
My strumstick, with a homemade bag I made for it. I used a capo because this thing is really long and I can barely reach the upper notes. The instrument is basically a dulcimer. It has a diatonic fretboard, not chromatic like a guitar. That means Do Re Me Fa So La Ti Do with none of the half tones in between. You tune it 1-5-1. It was my heaviest luxury item. Weighs about a pound. They make two versions that are much smaller. I wish I had the smallest one!
That's all my gear. Some